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Tim Faulkner: The role of small New England farms in combatting global warming

— Photo Frank Carini, ecoRI News

— Photo Frank Carini, ecoRI News

From ecoRI News (ecori.org)

Farming and the climate crisis are no doubt interconnected even in relatively farm-scarce southern New England. But local farming operations, including fishing and aquaculture, are increasingly considered part of the climate-adaptation solution and may even help to mitigate global warming.

“How are we going to be more sustainable in our region and continue to feed ourselves?” asked Sue AnderBois, moderator of a panel on climate and food at the Oct. 4 Rhode Island Energy, Environment & Oceans Leaders Day hosted by Sen. Sheldon Whitehouse, D-R.I.

As director for food strategy with the Rhode Island Commerce Corporation, AnderBois looks for business opportunities that advance food and farming policies in the state. There is definitely room to grow.

Rhode Island produces less than 5 percent of the food it consumes. This means that the Ocean State, and much of New England in fact, rely on food from places suffering from severe climate impacts such as drought-stricken California and the Amazon rainforest, a tropical region being destroyed to raise meat for fast-food restaurants.

Some of our local food sources are also moving away. Lobsters and other popular seafood staples are leaving Rhode Island waters because they are too warm. To counteract this change, the state is supporting businesses that market and process underutilized fish and plants and seafood moving into Rhode Island waters such as Jonah crab and black sea bass.

One of the panelists, Bonnie Hardy, canceled her appearance at the event to tend to work at her planned crab-processing facility in East Providence. A business processing local kelp is opening soon at the food incubator Hope & Main in Warren.

Consumers can contribute to the climate solution by buying local seafood, especially bivalves. A 2018 study found that eating local clams, mussels, oysters, and scallops is akin to a vegan diet when considering the carbon footprint.

On land, insects will be a growing climate problem for farming. Rising temperatures, a changing climate, and more frequent and intense rains will bring more pests. The state’s Division of Agriculture was overwhelmed this summer by efforts to address the spike in eastern equine encephalitis (EEE). The outbreak is a possible omen of future demands on state agencies, according to AnderBois.

Thanks to public pressure, food-service companies such as Sodexo and Aramak are offering more local food at schools and hospitals. Locally caught and processed dogfish is being used to make fish nuggets for public schools. Brown University, the Rhode Island School of Design, and Johnson & Wales University are all ramping up local food procurement for their kitchens and cafeterias, AnderBois said.

Nationally, however, such practices aren’t trending.

Government support for big agricultural operations at the expense of small farms hurts both local economies and the environment.

Jesse Rye, co-executive director of Farm Fresh Rhode Island, was appalled by the Trump administration’s recent decision to relocate federal research agencies such as the National Institute of Food and Agriculture from Washington, D.C., to the heart of “Big Ag” territory in Kansas City, Mo.

He said the actions by Trump favor large “commodity” farmers at the expense of small farms. The loss of research on nutrition and food insecurity is undermining the support structures for local food systems in southern New England, according to Rye.

”This way of disconnecting urban and rural communities is really going to erode the trust that we have in institutions, and I feel plays into the narrative that currently our government or this administration really only cares about the people that own food companies or own large-scale farms,” Rye said.

Any plan to address the climate crisis should take into account the most vulnerable, he said. It will require a “gigantic lift” to change consumer behavior and restructure the food system. He noted that a greater appreciation for scientific research and the true price of food is also necessary.

“We need to have a frank conversation as Americans about what cheap food is and how it’s possible and what are the costs that aren’t actually rolled into the costs we see at the supermarket.” Rye said, adding that society needs to recognize the environmental damage caused by continuing to do business as usual.

Rye urged the public to demand action from local, state, and national officials.

“If you have more time and energy for advocacy and outreach around issues for small farms now is the time to let your representatives hear that,” he said. “We need to let people know on a regional and national level that this is totally not acceptable.”

Brown University Prof. Dawn King, an expert on local food policy, agriculture, and the climate crisis, suggested that farms adhere to regulations for greenhouse-gas emissions as other businesses do. Farming, she noted, accounts for 10 percent of greenhouse gases in the United States and up to 25 percent of global emissions if deforestation is included.

Fertilizers, livestock, manure management, and tillage are the primary emission sources. King has researched manure as a source for compost and energy production. And farms, she said, if managed properly, can be one of the most effective carbon sinks.

“There is a lot we can do with carbon storage,” King said. “And even in Rhode Island that can be part of preserving the farmland that we desperately need to preserve here. Specifically, because we are not a farm state.”

Local farms can store carbon by growing grasses for small-scale beef production. Growing perennials and practicing forestry also capture and store carbon dioxide.

“Unfortunately, we are doing the exact opposite worldwide,” King said.

To get there, King called for a transformative initiative such as the Green New Deal combined with paying farmers to conserve land and practice sustainable soil management. Renewable-energy incentives should also be offered to help farmers earn additional revenue.

“We need to be sure we are protecting small farms,” she said.

Tim Faulkner is a journalist with ecoRI News (ecori.org).


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Tim Faulkner: Providence's stunning new food-distribution center

Artist’s rendition of Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s coming food-distribution center in Providence.

Artist’s rendition of Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s coming food-distribution center in Providence.

Via ecoRI News (ecori.org)

PROVIDENCE

This city recently celebrated its designation as a food capital by recognizing three new food ventures and a book touting its success at making food a cultural, educational, and economic engine.

The businesses — all under different stages of construction — include the relocation of Farm Fresh Rhode Island’s food distribution center to a 60,000-square-foot building on a 3.2-acre site off Valley Road, the 110,000-square-foot greenhouse for Gotham Greens on Harris Avenue, and the Urban Greens Co-op, a tenant in a new commercial and residential space on Cranston Street.

All of the projects are being built on remediated brownfield sites. The three organizations use food to bring together culture, arts, and economic growth for a “a new green future,” Mayor Jorge Elorza said at the May 30 “Edible Providence” event. “It’s just a way to bring us together as a community.”

The mayor spoke of celebrating his Guatemalan heritage through traditional foods such as tortillas, black beans, carne asada, and guacamole — all of which have been enjoyed and adopted by other cultures.

“Food has such a transformative quality to it in Guatemalan culture and in every culture throughout the world,” Elorza said.

Providence also was profiled in a chapter of the United Nations book Integrating Food Into Urban Planning. The planning guide looks at food systems in 20 cities, including Toronto, New York, Bangkok, and Tokyo.

The book shows how food is used across municipal agencies to address a range of issues such as health, diet, recreation, education, planning, and waste management.

Providence was singled out for having the forethought to increase food security and nutrition through collaboration between businesses, residents, and government.

Bonnie Nickerson, director of the city’s Department of Planning and Development, said the creation of the Office of Sustainability brought together several independent initiatives and policies. Changes to zoning regulations advanced programs for beekeeping, urban farming, and backyard chickens.

Nellie de Goguel, of the city’s Office of Sustainability, said the city is in the early stages of launching a curbside food-scrap collection service within a single neighborhood. The city has a goal of having 100 restaurants divert their food scrap for compost by 2020. So far, 12 restaurants are onboard through the city’s composting program.

Ellen Cynar, director of the city’s Healthy Communities Office, said new programs such as Lots of Hope created access to vacant land for neighborhood gardens and urban farmers. The city has a goal of hiring a farmer to manage the public farming and garden areas at city parks. Thanks to a federal grant the city is developing a farm-to-school program.

Cynar said the program will help students learn about the relationships between the environment and food.

Tim Faulkner is an eco RI News journalist.

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The increasing lure of localism

  By TIM FAULKNER, for ecoRI News

The benefits of independently owned businesses are nothing new, but a growing movement called “localism” is showing that they not only create positive economic benefits but also can drive positive social and environmental change.

One group championing localism, Oakland, Calif.-based BALLE, notes that some of the most significant benefits is the multiplier effect of money and jobs.

But localism, which is closely connected with social enterprise initiatives, also has a deeper connection with well-being and nature. And often these businesses focus on food.

Judy Wicks is one of the pioneers of the modern localism movement. Back in 1983, she helped save her Philadelphia neighborhood from demolition, to make way for a new shopping mall. She opened a café on first floor of the brownstone where she lived and started a business that matched her beliefs in community-focused economics and sustainability.

She paid employees a living wage, bought local, sustainably grown produce and local, humanely raised meat. She hosted community events, became the first business in Pennsylvania to run on renewable energy and started a regional food network.

“Business is about relationships with everyone that you buy from and sell to and work with and about our relationship with Earth itself,” she said during a talk in late April at the SEEED Summit at Brown University.

Wicks promotes localism through BALLE, which she co-founded, and numerous speaking engagements, often held in urban areas that are trying to promote community-driven businesses.

Dan Levinson, one of the SEEED Summit organizers, said the Providence area has the right elements to foster businesses with the dual mission of making a profit and doing good for the neighborhood. He noted that the city is small with a vibrant and motivated population that is eager to foster change. It has high unemployment, but many livable neighborhoods, good institutions and a mix of wealth and opportunity, he added.

“What I like about Providence, it’s a great economic petri dish,” Levinson said.

Organizations such as Farm Fresh Rhode Island have already made a big difference through the virtues of localism. The Pawtucket-based food distribution center of locally made, grown and raised food has provided much of the infrastructure for Rhode Island’s local food movement. Through farmers markets, food distribution and culinary processing, Farm Fresh sustains local farms, food trucks and restaurants.

Through his work at the Schumacher Center for a New Economics and the Providence-based Social Enterprise Greenhouse, Levinson, who is moving to Providence, plans to promote companies with an unorthodox business model, such as Wash Cycle Laundry, a high-labor, high-paying, bike-driven laundry service that has expanded from Philadelphia to Washington, D.C., and Austin, Texas.

Levinson said one of the benefits of localism and social equity is that they aren’t clearly defined. Most have a focus on making a profit while benefiting workers and the environment.

“When we say ‘local’ we don’t overly define it. You kind of know it when you see it,” he said.

Wicks, for her part, resisted suggestions to expand her restaurant to other cities. She instead sold it to a local businessman who agreed to continue her ethical business practices. Selling to a larger corporation was unthinkable, she said. The conventional business mantra of “grow or die,” Wicks said, only siphons jobs, wealth and political power from a community.

“I realized what was most important to me, and that was authenticity of the relationship with everybody in my business,” she said. “That really brought joy to me and my work.”

The environment matters Environmental matters run deep in the localism movement. Wicks said many of the successful economic village centers of the past were devastated by the expansion of the oil industry. Oil advocated for the expansion of the highway system, an intentional decline of rail use and a reliance on automobiles. Money soon left local economies, as did jobs, while the oil industry’s power concentrated in D.C.

To this day the oil industry maintains massive influence in Congress and political centers around the world.

Environmental issues such as climate change, Wicks said, are therefore impossible to address on a national level. “Oil is the blood of the long-distance global economy,” she said.

Levinson said localism shifts money and power back to the communities and reduces the biggest contributors to climate emissions: energy use and transportation. The community-oriented business model is attempting to undo the entrenched interests of large, centralized companies, he said.

“Big business has totally wiped out locally owned business,” Levinson said.

The iconic American Main Street is now dominated by McDonald’s. Most workers today are enslaved to their businesses, which seek to just make the most money they can in a barely legal way, Levinson said.

Locally owned businesses, he said, “are much more considerate of employees and much more considerate of place.”

Areas succeeding with localism are typically small cities or urban neighborhoods with already-built village centers. These areas are often more adaptable to smart-growth principals for transportation and housing.

Wicks and Levinson both agree that rural areas can also thrive by embracing the local agricultural movement and ancillary revenue streams from sources such as renewable energy. Wicks said she envisions an emptying of suburbs and shopping malls as the reverse migration to urban centers grows and energy becomes more expensive.

She said the suburbs can endure by adopting smart-growth principals and planning that encourages village centers, local shops and farming. “If suburban homes became small farms that would be cool,” she said.

Levinson noted that localism won’t likely take root anywhere without a passion for change. “The community really has to want it,” he said.

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