Kitschy but lovable

Downtown Vineyard Haven.

Downtown Vineyard Haven.

"{In Vineyard Haven} I like the whole barefoot, chattering melee on Main Street -- even, God help me, the gawking tourists with their Instamatics (a now extinct camera} and their avoirdupois. I like the preposterous gingerbread bank and the local lady shoppers with their Down East accents, discussing bahgins.

-- The late novelist William Styron, from "In Praise of Vineyard Haven,'' in On the Vineyard II (1990).

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Linda Gasparello: Cruising and learning on the Baltic and beyond